Almaty, individual travel, 2015.

2015-05-27 記
Topic: :カザフスタンアルマトイ


Travel from Urumqi to Almaty by overnight bus.

There seem to be several ways to travel from Urumqi to Almaty in Kazakhstan.

- Overnight train (Urumqi to Almaty)
- Overnight bus (Urumqi to Almaty)
- Transferring buses

Originally, I was planning to take the overnight train, but it was a bit difficult with my schedule, so I decided to take the overnight bus.
It seems that buses are more common these days in terms of price and frequency.

With the train, my stay in Urumqi would be either very short or inconveniently long.

■ After the trip:
If my schedule allowed, I think the train would have been better.
The advantage of the overnight bus seems to be its flexibility in terms of schedule, but arriving in Almaty late at night could be risky, especially for women traveling alone.
In terms of price, the overnight train is not that much more expensive considering it includes two nights.

Overnight train:
804 yuan (approximately 15,960 yen)
Arrival is in the morning of the third day, so you can take public transportation from the station to your hotel (which is cheaper).
Since it includes two nights, it's not that expensive compared to the overnight bus, considering the extra night.
Departure at 0:20 AM, arrival in the morning of the third day.

Overnight bus:
Total approximately 11,350 yen
Bus fare: 460 yuan (approximately 9130 yen)
Additional charges: 50 yuan (approximately 920 yen) - details below
Taxi fare from the bus terminal (final stop) at night: 2,000 tenge (approximately 1,300 yen)
One night spent on the bus. Departure at 7:00 PM.

The scheduled arrival time was around 7-9 PM, but I actually arrived at 1:00 AM.
Most travel accounts mention arrival times around 11 PM or 1 AM, so it's probably a good idea to expect a similar arrival time.

The arrival point is a terminal located a bit west of the city, so you'll need a taxi to get to your destination.

I asked a fellow bus passenger to negotiate a taxi fare, and I got a good price, but the initial price was 5,000 tenge (approximately 3,260 yen), so you should be prepared for that amount. In that case, the total cost would be 13,310 yen.

I heard that there were no taxis in Almaty, but in reality, there are a few taxis running.
You don't see many taxis cruising around, but there are a few waiting at places like the bus terminal, and they will come if you call for one.
However, even then, there's a chance that there might not be a taxi available. Taxis are not commonly seen in the city.

■ Train (Urumqi to Almaty) via Alashankou, 2 nights and 3 days
Saturday 0:20 AM departure from Urumqi (Friday night departure), arrival on Sunday at 8:00 AM
Monday 0:20 AM departure from Urumqi (Sunday night departure), arrival on Tuesday at 8:00 AM

Chinese train (departing on Saturday): 804 yuan (soft sleeper) (approximately 15,960 yen)
Kazakhstan train (departing on Monday): 824 yuan (hard sleeper) or 1094 yuan (soft sleeper)?



This was likely cheaper than the price of a guidebook (around 900 yuan at the time), so I speculate that it was unpopular and the price was reduced.

As the guidebook stated, the train tickets could be purchased on the first floor of the "Asia-Europe Hotel," which is right next to the railway station (to the left when exiting the station, or to the right when facing the station, on the north side of the station). However, there were few customers, and the staff seemed bored.

■ International Sleeper Bus (Urumqi to Almaty) via Khorgos, 1 night 2 days
Departing daily at 19:00 Beijing time.
The arrival time was stated as 19:00-21:00 the next day, but in reality, it was delayed and arrived at 1:00 AM.
Some information on other websites mentioned that it does not operate on Saturdays, but I confirmed that it departs every day.

Bus fare: 460 yuan (approximately 9130 yen) + additional charge of 50 yuan (approximately 920 yen) = 510 yuan (approximately 10125 yen)
You pay 460 yuan to the bus company, but an additional 50 yuan (presumably a bribe to skip baggage checks) is collected on the bus, so the total amount is as above.

If you don't pay, you might have to wait for several more hours to exit China, and since the arrival was already delayed and it was already midnight, you might end up taking the bus for two nights. Alternatively, there was a worst-case scenario where the border to Kazakhstan might be closed, and you might have to spend the night in a cold, desolate place with no luggage. In such a situation, it seems that you are forced to pay the 50 yuan because the system is designed to "trap" you if you don't. It seems that the staff of the bus company were aware of this and were collecting the money.

Therefore, it's better to assume that the price is 510 yuan as mentioned above.

■ Obtaining bus tickets
The guidebook stated that tickets could be obtained at a hotel or travel agency such as "○○ Hotel," but when I went to the bus terminal, I was able to buy tickets there as well. There was no commission.

The international bus terminal is located at Urumqi Terminal, which is about halfway between Urumqi Railway Station and People's Square.
The domestic and international bus terminals are in separate buildings, but they are right next to each other.

Following the advice of a roommate at the hotel, I obtained the tickets a few days before departure.



■Actual daily flow
Move to the international bus terminal about an hour before departure.
Complete the security check and load luggage onto the bus.

The seat I bought was "lower level number 2," but there was already someone there, and the driver said something like, "This is it," pointing to the upper level seats.
What is that? That carelessness. I'm worried about what will happen next.

A little later, someone appeared and said, "That's my seat," so it turned out that I wasn't going to be in the lower level seat.
Who are you, sitting there? Everyone started talking in Chinese or Russian, and then someone said, "How about the upper level number 3?" and I moved to that seat. Sigh.

The lower level seats are 460 yuan, and the upper level seats are 440 yuan, so there's a difference in price, but well, that doesn't matter anymore, it's a relaxed atmosphere.

In reality, it doesn't make much of a difference, so it's not a problem, but if you think about it, the "number 1" and "number 2" seats have no one in front of them, so there's no bulge under your feet, which means you can extend your legs. I regretted exchanging seats.

It seems that there are "upper" and "lower" levels for each number.
The entire bus has two rows, with number 1 being behind the driver's seat, on the left side of the vehicle. Number 2 is on the right side of number 1.
Number 3 is behind number 1. Number 4 is behind number 2.

I thought to myself:
- If you don't mind getting up and down alone, the "upper" level is better. The upper level is higher.
- If there are two people, the lower level is better.
- Number 1 or number 2 is better. You can extend your toes. (People with short legs don't have to worry about this.)

Therefore,
- The "upper level of number 1" and the "upper level of number 2" are the best,
and the next best are
- The "lower level of number 1" and the "lower level of number 2."



19:00 Almost on schedule.



Everyone is charged an additional 50 yuan.
The reason is unclear, but since I don't speak the language, I decided not to question it.
Even when I asked someone who understands English, they seemed to be struggling to explain it.
Although they say they understand English, they are students who are still learning, so their explanation is either clumsy or difficult to articulate, it's hard to tell.
Based on what I've read on other web pages, I suspect it's a bribe to skip the baggage check.
It's collected in a matter-of-fact way, as if it's an "obvious" thing that cannot be refused. It feels like a habit.
It seems that the Chinese government's anti-corruption measures have not yet reached this area.

22:30-23:30 Dinner
During dinner, I had some conversations, or rather, exchanged information in a vague way with a few people.
There was a student named Serik who could speak a little English, which was helpful.

They helped me in various ways.



After dinner, lights out.

6:00 Arrived at the border town, stopped by the roadside.

I searched for a toilet, but the park's toilet was locked and I couldn't enter.
I asked a nearby restaurant owner for a toilet, but he said, "No."

When I asked the driver, he said, "Over there," but the toilet was locked, so I tried to convey that it was "not open," but he didn't understand. As I was doing that, the driver took me to the park and pointed to the shade of a tree, saying, "This is the toilet." Oh my. Is that so?

If that's the case, there's nothing I can do, so I relieved myself in the shade of the tree. I've been having stomach problems since yesterday...
Ugh, it's a cruel fate to have to relieve myself in such a beautiful park.



And for breakfast, I had a light snack (like a meat bun) at the canteen.

8:30: Moved a little and arrived at the parking lot, took a break for meals.

Exchange rate: 100 yuan = 2930 yen.
The web rate is buy 3004 yen and sell 3110 yen, which is within an acceptable range.
The locals say a good rate is around 2990 yen.

I used up the remaining small Chinese yuan.
I bought water and bananas.

11:00 (Kazakhstan time 9:00): The bus moved to the border. I got off the bus.

The altitude here is 800m.

I didn't take out my luggage from the trunk. Maybe it's thanks to the bribe?
The Chinese exit doors are still closed, but people are vaguely lining up, not yet a rush.

11:50: The doors opened briefly, then closed immediately. People rushed in. The density of people increased. In the car lane, the bus started moving.

The doors open and close about every 10 minutes.
They are prioritizing people with children and the elderly, letting them pass through. Hmm.

12:05: Entered on the 3rd opening.

While waiting in the exit line, for some reason, a second line was formed, and I was suddenly moved to the front, which was confusing. The staff was getting angry and putting everyone back in a single line. What's going on?

After exiting, I was made to wait again for some unknown reason.
That is, after the exit stamp was put on my passport, they took only my passport to another room, and I waited in a large area.
I don't know why, but in the end, they said "OK" and returned my passport.
If you're going to check, shouldn't you do it before stamping?
I thought they would check and then stamp, but it turns out there are times like this.

By the way, there was only one baggage check counter inside the building, so if I had taken my luggage out, it would have been a disaster.
It's likely that it would have taken hours for my luggage to pass through, the entry would have been closed, and I would have been in a "stuck" situation, possibly spending the night at the border until the next day. That's probably why the 50 yuan (about 990 yen) bribe is necessary.

13:00: Left the building and entered the border area.

Changed to Kazakhstan time, so I moved the clock back 2 hours. Adjusted the clock from 13:00 to 11:00.

Waited for about 2 hours at the parking lot between the borders.
It's not very hot, but there's enough sunlight, so it's tiring to wait.
The number of people exiting is small, but the overall progress is too slow.

I can see buses being boarded one by one.
The bus behind can't leave until the bus in front leaves, so everyone has to wait.
What an inefficient system.
For the staff checking, it's easy because they just have to wait. However, for the users, even if one bus has someone who is slow, all the buses behind have to wait.

I thought it was empty at first, but it seems that the system is the problem because it takes so long. There are also few counters.

Several buses that appear to be going to nearby towns have arrived and are picking up passengers in a separate lane before moving on. However, the passengers rushing to the door are literally "rushing."
People are trying to get in through the narrow entrance, so it's hard for people to get in.
If you watch from the side, it's comical, but I don't want to be involved in that.
There were people who, when another bus going to the same destination came alongside, made a rude face at the people fighting at the door, said "Hey, over here," and boarded the newly arrived bus. What a mess.

If I had tried to go to a nearby town and cross the border by transferring buses, I might have gotten caught up in something like that. I don't want to be involved in that, so I'm a little annoyed.

12:55 (Beijing time 14:55): Finally, it was our bus's turn, so we lined up in front of the bus. The door is open, but for some reason, we're still waiting.

13:20 (Beijing time 15:20): Finally boarded the bus. What was that 30 minutes for?

13:27: The bus left, driving a few kilometers in a straight line to the Kazakhstan border. I thought it was far, but it seems they were detouring because the bridge was under construction.

13:30: Arrived at the Kazakhstan side border.

There was a line of buses.
Just filled out the entry card and waited in the bus.

Waited 35 minutes for the bus to move one position.
If we assume there are about 30 people and 3 counters, that's an average of 3 minutes per person. It doesn't seem like there are 10 counters.

14:51: Went to the building.

There's only one entry inspection counter... That's why it's so slow. ...But then it became two. Still, only two?
...It increased to three while I was waiting. Still, only three?

First, I received the entry stamp without carrying my luggage, and then I took out my luggage.

No questions during the entry inspection. The immigration officer didn't say a word.
Japanese citizens are currently in a trial period of visa-free entry for one year, so a visa is not required.

I went back to the bus and took out my luggage from the trunk for the security check.
I didn't have the awareness of going back. It's quite new.

There were many security guards (?), all wearing black masks, in the security check area. What is this?

After the security check, I was able to pass through to the other side of the building and successfully entered.

The piroshki (?), which are sold at the convenience store on the other side, are delicious.





15:25 (Beijing time 5:25) Finally, the entry process is complete.

Waiting for other people.
The bus hasn't arrived yet.

15:45 The bus arrived, so I loaded my luggage.

17:00 (Beijing time 19:00) The bus still hasn't left the border. It's been delayed a lot, but there's no sign of it hurrying.

I've already been at the border for more than 9 hours. It's been 13 hours since the bus arrived in the border town.
When I asked, someone said that two people haven't left yet? Hmm. Apparently, they are waiting for those two people.

17:15 It seems like we're about to leave soon. I got on the bus.

17:22 Suddenly, the engine started and the bus moved, so I thought it was leaving the border, but it immediately stopped and people started loading luggage into the aisle.

17:27 This time, we're really leaving.

We're speeding through the countryside.

The road isn't very good, so it's bumpy, but it's within an acceptable range.

There are grasslands and other things spread out around us.



18:30 Break. The toilet is in the nearby grass. I feel like it's been a long time since I last urinated outdoors.

19:30-20:30 Dinner. Even though it's so late, I'm still eating a proper meal.

The next day, at 1:15 AM, I arrived at the Almaty bus terminal. It seems to be called the "Sayran Bus Terminal."

I was worried about getting to the hotel, but several taxis were waiting, so I took one for 2,000 tenge (about 1,300 yen) to travel about 10 km (?). Initially, they asked for 5,000 tenge (about 3,260 yen), but a student I got to know (named Serik) negotiated for me, and it became cheaper. I'm grateful.

I arrived at the hotel around 2:00 AM. It was a long day.

I stayed at a place called "Hello Hostel."
I'm staying for 5 nights.
I had originally reserved an 8-person room, but they offered me a 4-person room for the same price.
It's 2,500 tenge (about 1,630 yen) per night.

It's quite clean and comfortable.
The bed is soft.
The shower room is large, which is interesting. Is this normal here?
The Wi-Fi is also good. In China, the internet was slow everywhere, but it's quite fast here.

↓ Image from a later date



The next day, I went to the Migration Police to register as a foreigner.

According to the following information, "All foreign nationals must register with the Immigration Police within 5 days of entering the country."
http://www.invest.gov.kz/?option=content§ion=2&itemid=89&lang=jp
http://www.invest.gov.kz/?option=content§ion=2&itemid=89&lang=jp
http://www.kz.emb-japan.go.jp/jp/safety/registration.pdf
http://www.kz.emb-japan.go.jp/jp/safety/registration.pdf

The Immigration Police registration office is what is commonly referred to as the "Migration Police."
The address is listed, so I searched for it on Google Maps, but it didn't come up properly. I found the name of the road and visually confirmed the surrounding buildings, and I was able to find it quickly.
It seems to be about a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

When I went there, I was told, "You are already registered with this stamp." Eh, is that so?
The stamp pressed in the lower center seems to indicate that I am already registered, based on their words and gestures.

Perhaps the website information is just outdated.
Just in case, I emailed the Japanese embassy to confirm.

■Reply from the embassy:
You have already completed the foreigner registration at the border.
Therefore, no additional foreigner registration is necessary.

That's what they said.

Perhaps the information on the website is old.

I checked again carefully.

↓Based on what is written here, it seems that foreigner registration is required for entry by land.
In fact, in other travelogues, there were descriptions of people going to register as foreigners.


According to what is written here, it seems that Japan is automatically registered.


It seems like the only way to check is to see if two stamps have been applied.


Almaty Zoo.

Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.



Today, I am going to the zoo located east of Almaty.

I checked the bus routes, but it seems there isn't a convenient one near my accommodation. It's about 4km away, which is less than an hour by walking, so I decided to walk there, taking it as a stroll.


Green Market (Central Bazaar)

I leave the zoo and take a walk in the park.



And then, suddenly, I looked to the right and saw something that looked like a market, so I went to check it out.
It seems to be a "Green Market" (Central Bazaar).

It seems quite well-stocked, but I wonder if it's just my feeling that it's not very popular. Maybe it depends on the time of day.




Military History Museum

After looking at the market, I found a place called "Military History Museum" nearby on Google Map, so I decided to go there.



This seems to be the building, but I can't figure out the entrance.

The entrance that looks like the main entrance is not the actual entrance. I went to the door a little to the right, and when I asked the security guard who was there, he opened a room in the back, which was the document room.

It's strange that such a large building only has one room for exhibits. I don't understand.



And then I leave the building.




Zenkov's Cathedral.

After that, I went to the nearby Zenkov's Cathedral.



After that, I went to the nearby Zenkov's Cathedral.



After that, I went to the nearby Zenkov's Cathedral.



After that, I went to the nearby Zenkov's Cathedral.




National Museum of Nature and Science.

Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.



Today, I will visit the National Central Museum in Almaty.
It's not that far, so I will go on foot.

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